I think most people would be surprised how easy faux finishes can be. Dollar store items are great things to practice on, and if they turn out . . . great! If not, you’re only out a buck and some time.
Different finishes work better on different surfaces and it’s only through trial and error that you’ll discover what works best for you.
I like these plastic skeleton platters because there’s a both the flat surface of the platter and some detail with the skulls and bones.
Last year I used a similar platter for a Faux Stone finish.
This year I wanted to try something metallic, like a Faux Zinc finish I’ve been seeing all over Pinterest.
Although I was torn after spraypainting the platter silver. I kinda liked how bright and shiny it was . . .
So I asked the Facebook group . . .
. . . and then broke out the black paint and glaze.
There are all kinds of glazes out there but most have the same qualities – they thin the paint, provide translucency, and allow more “open” time to manipulate the paint/glaze mixture however you want.
Most people recommend using a soft cloth or cheesecloth for glazing.
I use an old tee shirt, cut up into squares . . . most of the time.
In a pinch, a paper towel works too.
For this platter I used about a tablespoon of Antique Effects to a tiny squirt of black paint.
I’d never used Antique Effects and was pretty pleased with it. Plenty of time to smoosh the glaze around, which I like. I’ll definitely be trying it with more faux finishes soon.
Thoroughly mix the paint and glaze. A plastic palette knife is great, but not necessary. Anything will work.
Use a bristle brush to work the glaze into any deep crevices.
That’s key . . . you want the darkest colors to get into all of the nooks and crannies.
Work in small sections, applying the glaze mixture and then wiping off with your cloth.
Or paper towel.
After one layer of paint/glaze, it was pretty light on the flat surfaces.
Try to avoid brush marks or obvious wiping marks.
After the first layer dries, apply a second glaze layer in the same fashion, working it into the crevices and using the paper towel to remove the glaze.
For the flat surfaces, try blotting with your cloth to get a different texture.
If you want even more color, you can apply the glaze by dipping your cloth into the glaze directly.
Always have a clean, slightly damp cloth ready, just in case an area gets too dark.
After it dries, seal with Krylon’s Matte Finish.
While any sealer would work, there’s something about Krylon Matte. I’ve used it for years on faux finishes and decorative painting and it always adds richness and depth that you don’t see prior to sealing the piece.
Notice how the darker parts are where the bones and skulls meet the platter.
You’d never believe it was plastic, would you?
That’s the fun of faux finishes, creating an entirely new look with a little bit of paint.
If you prefer a ‘stone’ look, try the technique I used last year. That’s fun too.
Have you tried any metallic finishes lately?
Faux Zinc Halloween Platter Supply List
- plastic Skull Platter from dollar store
- Brilliant Silver by Krylon
- Martha Stewart Antique Effects
- Licorice (black) by Folk Art
- old bristle brush
- paper towel
- Krylon Matte sealer